Sri Lanka is home to seven major tea-growing regions, each contributing its own unique character to the globally celebrated Ceylon black tea. On this journey, we explore four of these regions—focusing particularly on Kandy, a hallmark of mid-grown teas—and uncover the rich terroir, traditional craftsmanship, and cultural heritage behind one of the world’s most beloved tea varieties.
Whether you're a tea connoisseur or simply curious about the origins of your morning brew, this immersive trip into Sri Lanka’s highlands offers deep insights into how elevation, soil, and processing shape flavor—and how these elements come together in the perfect cup of milk tea.
👉 Discover how tradition meets innovation in global tea culture
The Road to Kandy: Entering Sri Lanka’s Tea Heartland
Our journey begins in Colombo, where we meet our driver early in the morning. After four hours of steady ascent through winding mountain roads, the urban sprawl gives way to lush green hillsides dotted with small farms, roadside coconut vendors, and clusters of fruit stalls. As we enter the tea-producing region of Kandy, the landscape transforms completely—low-rise buildings and repair shops fade into tea estates, mist-covered plantations, and colonial-era bungalows nestled among forested ridges.
The first stop? A tea estate recommended by our driver—one not on our original itinerary. While such recommendations are often part of commission-based tourism circuits, this visit proves valuable. Located at approximately 450 meters above sea level, it sits at the transitional edge between low-grown and mid-grown tea zones, technically placing it within Kandy’s mid-elevation category. Though modest in scale, the estate provides an authentic glimpse into local tea production practices.
Understanding Sri Lanka’s Tea Terroir
Sri Lankan teas are traditionally classified by altitude:
- Low-grown (below 600m) – Bold, full-bodied flavors with dark liquor
- Mid-grown (600–1,200m) – Balanced profiles with moderate astringency
- High-grown (above 1,200m) – Delicate, floral notes and lighter color
While high-grown teas like those from Nuwara Eliya often receive the most acclaim, mid-grown Kandy teas hold their own with robust structure and earthy depth—ideal for blending or crafting bold milk tea.
This particular estate spans a steep 30-degree slope with south-west-facing exposure. Its grey sandy loam soil drains well but retains moisture due to frequent cloud cover and high humidity. These conditions lead to lush, fast-growing tea plants with higher water content—a terroir trait that influences processing decisions downstream.
To compensate for the excess moisture, the estate employs an aggressive withering process, reducing leaf moisture by around 80%. This results in lower fermentation levels and incomplete drying, ultimately yielding tea with pronounced tannins and a distinct smoky, woody character—hallmarks of traditional Ceylon black tea processed using the CTC (Crush-Tear-Curl) method.
👉 Explore how natural elements shape premium beverage craftsmanship
Inside the Tea Factory: From Leaf to Cup
The tour follows the full production chain:
- Withering – Fresh leaves are spread out to reduce moisture
- Rolling/CTC Processing – Leaves are crushed into small颗粒 (granules) for faster oxidation and stronger brews
- Fermentation – Controlled oxidation develops color and flavor
- Drying – Halts oxidation and preserves shelf life
- Grading & Packaging – Sorted by particle size and quality
Unlike larger estates that produce multiple grades, this facility focuses on four common commercial grades: BOP (Broken Orange Pekoe), BOPF (Broken Orange Pekoe Fannings), PF (Pekoe Fannings), and Dust. These fine-cut teas are staples in mass-market tea bags and milk tea blends due to their quick infusion and strong liquor.
At the tasting room, visitors can sample two complimentary brews. We request BOP and BOPF—two of the most widely used grades for both single-origin infusions and blended milk teas.
The staff prepares the tea using the standard evaluation method:
- 350ml boiling water
- 2.5g of tea
- 4-minute steep
The resulting liquor is deep amber-brown with a slightly dull appearance. Aromas of wood smoke dominate the front palate, followed by noticeable astringency on the finish. While not complex enough for solo sipping, this profile is perfect for milk tea—its bold base cuts through dairy while adding rustic depth.
Unlocking Better Flavor: Adjusting Brew Parameters
Standard brewing methods prioritize consistency over nuance—but with slight adjustments, even modest-grade teas can shine. Based on our observations, we recommend a modified infusion technique to enhance body and reveal layered terroir characteristics:
- Use 350ml water with 2.5g BOP tea
- Steep for 3 minutes
- Add another 2g of tea and steep for 1 additional minute
This two-stage method extracts more complexity from the leaf, revealing hints of wet valley earth and charred wood—flavors intrinsic to Kandy’s humid microclimate.
Back in Kaohsiung, we tested a custom milk tea recipe using BOP tea purchased onsite:
Homemade Kandy Milk Tea (Yield: ~420ml)
- 350ml water
- 7.5g Ceylon BOP tea
- 100ml whole milk
- 2–3 tablespoons brown sugar (preferably jaggery or red cane sugar)
Instructions:
- Bring water to a boil
- Add 1/3 of the tea leaves; simmer gently for 1 minute
- Pour in milk and sugar; continue simmering for 1 minute
- Add remaining tea leaves; remove from heat
- Steep covered for 4 minutes
- Strain and serve in a large mug
- Optional: Top up with extra milk for creamier texture
The result? A rich, aromatic milk tea with balanced sweetness, smoky undertones, and a velvety mouthfeel—proof that origin matters, even when blending.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What makes Kandy tea different from other Ceylon teas?
A: Grown at mid-elevations (600–1,200m), Kandy teas are fuller-bodied and more robust than high-grown varieties. Their earthy, slightly smoky profile makes them ideal for milk-based preparations.
Q: Is Ceylon tea the same as Sri Lankan tea?
A: Yes. “Ceylon tea” refers to tea grown in Sri Lanka during British colonial times. Though the country changed its name in 1972, the term remains widely used in international markets.
Q: Why do many Sri Lankan teas use CTC processing?
A: CTC produces small, uniform particles that brew quickly and deliver strong flavor—perfect for tea bags and milk tea. It’s especially popular in South Asia and Eastern Europe.
Q: Can low-grade teas like BOP make good milk tea?
A: Absolutely. Grades like BOP and BOPF are designed for bold extraction and hold up well against milk and sugar. They form the backbone of many commercial blends.
Q: How does climate affect tea flavor in Sri Lanka?
A: Humidity, rainfall, temperature, and sunlight exposure all influence leaf growth and chemical composition. In Kandy’s moist highlands, slower photosynthesis leads to higher polyphenol content—contributing to stronger tannins and deeper color.
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Final Thoughts: Celebrating Craft in Every Cup
This journey into Kandy’s tea country reveals far more than just agricultural practice—it’s a story of adaptation, resilience, and sensory legacy. From colonial plantations to modern smallholdings, Sri Lanka’s tea culture continues to evolve while honoring centuries-old techniques.
Whether enjoyed plain or transformed into creamy milk tea, Kandy’s mid-grown black teas offer a gateway to understanding how geography shapes taste—and how mindful brewing can elevate even everyday ingredients into something extraordinary.